1. you must try club orange soda.  it’s amazing.  it’s like sunkist plus REAL orange juice. there are real bits of orange in it.  SO GOOD.
2. go to cafe en seine on dawson street.  it’s a little slice of paris in dublin.  during the day, it’s good for soup and sandwiches and isn’t very $$$.  at night, it’s a swanky night club (warning, sometimes they card for 21+)
3. visit the douglas hyde gallery. all of the art museums in dublin are free, but this one is by far the best.  the cafe downstairs is really nice, a little $$ though.  the national gallery (kind of boring) and the irish museum of contemporary art (really far away from everything) are okay, but douglas hyde is where it’s at.  has contemporary art and older stuff.  very cool.
4. the porterhouse. there are four of these scattered throughout dublin.  the main ones you should know– there’s one in temple bar on parliament street and one by trinity. ORDER THE CHEESEPLATE.  it’s 10 euro and worth so much more.  there’s also this great strawberry beer (fruli i think it’s called), which is nice like once or twice, and after that, it’s too sweet i think.  also, probably the only pub in dublin where you can’t order a guinness– it’s a microbrewery so they don’t serve it.
5. go on the jameson tour.  and raise your hand to be a volunteer at the very beginning!  you get to become a certified whiskey taster if you do.  and who doens’t want that?
6. you have to put your arm out if you want a bus to stop. nobody told me this and i watched my bus pass me by twice before i finally caught the third one.
7. left luggage secret: if you have a friend coming to visit you from somewhere else in europe and they only have a small back pack (think like a normal book bag, not a backpacking pack), you can store it at the douglas hyde for FREE.  there’s a set of lockers in the basement and you just need a euro, which you get back when you return the key.  very sneaky.  downside?  it’s only big enough for like a backpack and a coat, it’s at the very top of oconnell street, and it closes at 5.  still good to know though.
8. don’t worry about the rain.  only tourists wear wellies (rainboots).  i don’t think i ever saw an irish person with a rain jacket either.  umbrellas are nice, but be prepared to buy a new one at least once.
9. when someone mentions the “keys,” they’re really talking about the quays (but they pronouce it “key”).  the quays are the areas/intersections along the river liffey.  they all have specific names…and some of them are labeled.
10. if someone tries to teach you a bit of irish in the bars, do not repeat the phrase “pog ma thon.”
11. when you order a guinness, you have to wait for it to settle.  so the bartender will fill it about 75% and then let it sit there while he does something else. he’s not ignoring you.  he’ll come back and fill the rest.  but even then, you should wait like 1-2 minutes before you take a sip.
12. you can’t hail cabs in belfast.  if you stick your hand out, they will not stop.  if you ask anyone or look around, you be able to get a cab company’s number and call for pick up, but they simply will not stop for you on the street.
13. don’t wear 4 inch heels for a night out in temple bar.  it’s all cobblestones. you will fall and it will hurt.
14. always say thank you to your bus driver when exiting the bus.  everyone does it.  not suck ups or goody two shoes.  you just always do it.
15. if you’re a coffee lover, learn to like tea.  if you order coffee anywhere except a designated coffee place/cafe (like starbucks, butlers, insomnia, etc), it will probably be instant and it will taste terrible.  even some nicer restaurants will serve you instant coffee.
16. go bike riding in phoenix park. it’s the largest enclosed urban park in europe (surprising, right?).  yeah, it’s kind of far away from oconnell street, but the 90 or the 92 to heuston station will get you there.  and it’s totally worth it.  right at the main gates, there’s a bike rental place where  you can rent bikes for a reasonable price.  the park is huge and gorgeous and the american ambassador’s residence is there.
17. don’t even think about using your american hairdryer there.  even if you use the right adpater and converter, i’m telling you, it will go up in smoke.  three people in my group broke their hairdryers in the first week.  it won’t work. buy one there for 15 euro at a boots pharmacy.
18. go to butler’s coffee.  you get to pick a free truffle with any coffee drink you order. butler’s chocolates make very nice gifts to bring home as well– but don’t buy them in dublin, there are 2423423 places to pick them up at the dublin airport.
19. see the bog bodies at the national museum.  the museum is on kildare street, so it’s really easy to get to (free, again).  they found these perfectly preserved bodies in the bog.  the bodies are from a super super super long time ago (if i put down a year, i’d be making it up).  you can see the finger nails still intact on some of the bodies.  pretty creepy.  one looks like gollum.  it’s gross.  but still so cool.
20. pick up cool phrases like “give me a ring!”  “thanks a million!”  but no, they do not ever say “top of the morning.”

hope this helps those of you who are currently studying abroad in ireland!

having been home for 2 days now, i don’t think i’ve experienced culture shock.  culture…readjustment and surprise?  perhaps.  two teeny instances:

• waiting to go through customs at the dublin airport, i heard a lot of americans (with accents way more obnoxious than mine) ask really stupid questions…and i was surprised/annoyed/reminded of how obnoxious we really are.
• in the parking lot at o’hare, i kept thinking that every car i saw was sooooo unneccessarily large.

maybe it will kick in later.

my parents don’t seem to be sick of me talking about ireland yet, but i’m sure they will be soon.  other people seem really interested in hearing about ireland, but then i have to explain how ireland and northern ireland are different countries and blah blah blahhhhh.

then they’re shipping us off to galway, which is the west coast of ireland. when cromwell came to ireland to hate on the irish, he told them “to hell or to connacht,” meaning, “either i will kill you for being catholic and poor or you can go to farm the shittiest land in ireland.” yes, cromwell was one of the top ten greatest britons.

from there we’ll go to the aran islands which are basically giant rocks in the ocean.  and the people there all still speak irish.  and they have sheep and knit aran sweaters.

AND I WILL HAVE NO WIFI.  like rehab for a computer addict.  no gmail.  no daily mail photo gallery.  no google reader.  no huffpo.

back in dublin on tuesday.  fly home on wednesday.

(but the paper is DONE!)

so i did eight interviews for this project and i recorded them all. i’ve been transcribing them over the last few days….dutifully recorded every precious word these pretentious art people said. i have so much to do that transcribing is what i do to take a break from writing the actual paper. ANYWAY today i deleted one of my interviews from the digital voice recorder. so i will have an incomplete set of transcripts. and incompleteness bothers me.

nevermind all the valuable information lost to the gods of microchips….my transcript section in my appendix will be incomplete!

so right now, as i have less than 3 days to finish this beast of a paper, he is belting out maroon 5’s “this love” upstairs..and playing along on guitar….while i try to transcribe an interview with a super duper thick scottish accent.

MAKE IT STOPPPPPPPPPP!

also, this is a 16 year singing about how he “tried his best to feed her appetite, tried to keep her satisfied.” puhleeeeeeeeeez.

i’m on the listserve for the bernard field station (bfs) group, so i knew it was still an issue.  i didn’t know people were vandalizing cgu dorms as a sign of protest.  save the bfs!

i don’t want to talk about chocolate AK47s anymore!!!!!!!!!

dessert by rita duffy

the euro to dollar exchange rate over the last three months

i normally hate starbucks and avoid them at all costs.  you know…because they’re evil corporate devils and blah blah blah (i hear they’re getting better?  something like 90% of their milk is organic?)

but the normal coffee here is SO BAD that i have to go to starbucks.  i went into a COFFEE SHOP in derry and the woman made me instant coffee!  i don’t even have instant coffee when i’m camping.  i would rather go without coffee entirely than sip that rat poison.

my mother makes very strong, very fresh, very dark coffee.  i used to call that rat poison.  now, it is the nectar of the gods.

how am i supposed to write 40 pages about irish contemporary art and its relationship with politics on instant coffee?

only exception to this awful coffee is this place called Butler’s.  they’re all over city centre.  always very tiny. very neat.  lots of gold fancy script. and gold on the facade of the store.  anyway, the allure is that with whatever drink you order, you get to pick a truffle!  for free!  (okay there is no free lunch, but work with me).  the champagne truffle is my personal favorite so far.  best part is going with this girl on my program who loves coffee but hates chocolate and i get to take her truffle.  SUCCESS!