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36 hours…

A few weeks passed and then Patricia and I had the great idea to see Florence and Venice within 36 hours. We had looked at the price of hostels and our looming paper deadlines and decided that continuous travel was really the best option. So, along with two other kids in our study abroad group, we set off Friday (the 21st of November) afternoon for Florence. We were met in Florence by my friend from school, Hallie, who is also a friend of Patricia. She is studying in Florence this semester. She showed us around and the five of us went out to a pseudo-Mexican restaurant. It wasn’t amazing, but it was the closest thing I had had to Mexican food since leaving the States, so it was good enough.

After dinner, we met some of Hallie’s study –abroad friends and hung out at her apartment until our 2 a.m. train. The first train on the first leg of the trip to Venice was awful. People were smelly, sleeping on multiple seats with their shoes off, and – apparently – hadn’t ever showered. It was terrible since there were no open seats for us. We stood in the aisle for a while until a fellow passenger threw up two feet from us onto the floor, at which point we, on the verge of being sick ourselves, moved into the no-man’s-land at the end of the car. We were so happy to get off that train that we didn’t care how crowded our next one was for the second leg into Venice. Needless to say, however, we were not able to get any sleep on the trains like we had planned and arrived into Venice at 6 in the morning bleary-eyed and shivering.

As we left the train station, the sun was only just starting to think about coming up, and it was freezing. Well, actually, it was below freezing. So, we got ourselves to the nearest café and hunkered down with coffee and fresh pastries for an hour or so. After we were fully prepared to leave the comfort of the café, we set forth to discover Venice. The sun was slowly rising and so was the temperature, a bit. We walked around for the next 8 hours, refusing overpriced gondola rides and trying to stay awake and alert. Random trivia: a 30 minute gondola ride costs about 80 Euro. Is it absurd? Absolutely.

We then got on a train to take us home that afternoon and hunkered down for the first leg of the 5 and a half hour ride. Learning from our previous mistake, we paid a little more and rode in the nicest train that Italy has to offer. It was heaven. I was almost sad to depart and change trains in Florence, but being so close to Siena made it okay. After a drunk 20something threw up on this second train, we couldn’t help but laugh at our awful luck. It was simply not our weekend when it came to vomiting train passengers. When we arrived back to Siena we all went our separate ways and, as most of my trips end, I almost immediately fell asleep.

Although I will never do that nonstop type of travel again, it was worth it just this once. Venice, while overly touristy and over-priced, was beautiful and it was fun to see Hallie in Florence. Now, I simple have to do my homework this week as this upcoming weekend I am going home with my roommate to Mantova, where we will also see Verona. That is, IF the trains run through the Apennines. With the snow this time of year, you never know.

A Grecian Holiday

I think it is funny that, after being here for almost four months, I will have less than ten blog posts to show for it.  How sad!!  I know it’s been a while, but, with my 15 page paper safely turned in, I can finally blog about my Fall Break.

On October 31st, my good friend Patricia and I began our fall break journey to Greece. We left that Friday evening by bus that got us into Milan centrale around midnight. Although we had planned to take another bus from Milan centrale to the Milanese airport, our first bus was late and we missed it. So, instead of paying 10 Euro each and taking a bus for an hour, we had to catch a taxi. At midnight. In the pouring rain. Oh, but it gets better! We finally hailed a taxi and found out that it would cost us 80 Euro to get to the airport. Without any other options and a 5:00 a.m. flight to catch, we reluctantly agreed to the ridiculous price.

We later regretted that decision. Our taxi driver was a middle-aged Italian named Marco. He decided that it was his duty to drive as slowly as possible while telling us all sorts of inappropriate things that occur on in 3rd world countries and his risqué adventures therein. When we finally got to the airport, we practically leapt out of the taxi, faces bright red with embarrassment. It wasn’t completely awful, since I only understood two thirds of what he said, but I had understood enough to find it uncomfortable. However, Marco never seemed to notice our repeated topic changes, so perhaps he was just trying to be informative. Haha.

We spent the wee hours of the night in the Milan airport attempting to sleep (in shifts, of course). Unfortunately, Patricia can’t sleep sitting up and I had a terrible allergy attack and couldn’t breathe so we mainly sat there watching the hours go by. For a big city like Milan, I was surprised at how small the airport seemed. Or maybe that’s just because it was more or less empty when we were there. When 4:00 a.m. rolled around I could not have been happier – the only café’ in the terminal had opened!!! We had gone through our supplies of tangerines and snacks and I was finally able to breathe, so a little food seemed in order. After refueling my tank, Patricia and I headed through security and toward our gate.

As we made our way through the terminal I suddenly heard a voice behind me yell, “Senora!! Senora!” Being the nice person that I am, I turned around and came face to face with the person to whom the voice belonged. She was an old woman dressed entirely in black, with a black head scarf and a lazy eye. Her face was frantic as she waved her boarding pass in front of me, speaking something similar to Italian. I discovered that she was on our flight and explained this to her as I led her to the correct gate. From then on, she barely left my side. On escalators she would grab my arm with surprising strength, and I ended up having to walk her to the bathroom. It is what I would want someone to do for my grandmother, so I didn’t mind too much. I helped her onto the plane and, when we finally said goodbye in Athens, Greece I helped her to the baggage claim. Thus, I had adopted a little old Italian lady.

Upon arriving in Greece at 10 a.m., Patricia and I were exhausted. We briefly met up with my friend Bri (from CMC) who is studying in Athens this semester and caught a ferry to our final destination: the island of Paros. The ferry was much more amazing than expected and we made the most of it by sleeping, playing games, and ordering different things to eat…then dropping some on the ground…then eating them anyways. Hey! We were tired and it was expensive. The five-second rule definitely counts. When we arrived that night into Parikia, the city on Paros in which we were to spend 6 days, we could not have been happier – beds were only moments away! Our hotel manager, George, picked us up from the docks and we were asleep before hitting the pillows. We slept like the dead.

The next day we awoke nice and late and decided to go to the beach. After getting directions from the hotel receptionist on the best beach only 30 minutes away, we set off. An hour and a half later, our feet blistered and bleeding, we finally arrived at the beach. We should have learned then not the believe Greeks when they tell you how far something is. But we didn’t. Anyway, we lounged on the beach and took the quickest of dips into the cold Mediterranean. I had expected much warmer…but we were California-strong and went in the water anyway!!! With our feet in such bad shape, we called a taxi to pick us up and take us back to the hotel. While we received a few furtive glances of surprise at our towel-clad disarray, the driver politely said nothing.

The funniest thing about the Greek language is that there seems to be no set translation for names. We saw signs for cities spelled in at least 4 different ways – and these were highway signs. Drios, for example, was also Drio, Dryos, Dryo, and Drioss. It was an adventure to figure out if you were where you were supposed to be or not.

Anyway, that first night on the island was our 44 year old hotel manager’s birthday and he invited us to come celebrate with him. When we ask what we would be doing he replied, “What you want?” and when we asked what time, he replied, “When you want?” which got us nowhere. We ended up going out to his favorite local haunt and trying Ouzo for the first and, for me, last time. It was an adventure that we learned from due to the headaches Patricia and I were stuck with the next day.

The next day was Monday. Patricia and I had wanted to rent bikes and peddle around the island, so George had promised the night before that he would help find a bike rental shop that was open. This was a bit difficult as we were visiting in the off-season. However, he was able to find us two sturdy bikes with which Patricia and I set off to ridethe 8 miles to Naoussa, the next largest town. The receptionist claimed that it was about an hour and a half ride. It turned out that we overestimated our athletic ability; an 8 mile ride up and down rolling hills was much more difficult than we imagined and took us almost 4 hours. After that, we didn’t believe anyone’s estimations of time and distance. By the time we arrived in Naoussa, we were sweaty, sore, and regretting our decision since the town was almost entirely empty. Luckily, we were able to call the same cab driver as the day before to pick us, and our bikes, up and take us back to Parikia. We tipped him well.

That night, we walked around Parikia and stumbled across the best dinner of the trip at a little tavern near the wharf. I had the most delicious rabbit and Patricia was able to find some good vegetarian options. As soon as we arrived, the cook took us into the kitchen to show us what was available for dinner. Turns out that this is common practice for small towns – menus are there for reference, but not used to order from. You eat from what is already cooked in the kitchen or you go somewhere else.

The next day we relaxed, our bottoms sore from the bikes. We went again to a beach, but a closer one this time. Again, we got into the cold water which received the praise of an equally brave Greek woman who must have been in her 60’s out for a morning dip. That evening, we met an American boy who was studying abroad at an art school on the island and we had dinner. I fell in love after the first bite of tzatziki – a dip made of feta and cucumber.

On the following day, we rented a car to more efficiently explore Paros. We drove all over, and man, it felt GOOD! It had been months since Patricia or I had driven a car and we definitely missed it. We drove along the perimeter of the island, stopping at a bar/restaurant called “Malibu” for lunch. After we had eaten, two Greek men in their late 20’s bought us each a shot of tequila. Which we politely refused repeatedly. We left as soon as we could, but ended up being followed by the aforementioned men. After some 007-esque maneuverings, we thought we had lost them and so went one our way to a famous beach nearby. As we got out of our car, the men drove up from the opposite direction and asked us, in very broken English, if we would have coffee with them that night. After turning them down on no uncertain terms they left with incredible speed. While we acted unmoved, we had been rather concerned since we left the restaurant. Whenever we saw a car like theirs for the rest of the day, our hearts started racing a bit.

However, the beach we discovered was famous for good reason: the sand was the softest we had ever felt. So, since we arrived while the sun was setting, be decided to come back during the day the following morning. We rented the car for a second day and had a wonderful time. That afternoon, we had scheduled a horseback tour of the coast near Naoussa. I had taken horseback riding lessons for some time as a child, but Patricia, a sympathetic vegetarian, had not. It was the most fun I had had the whole trip!!! I loved every minute – we even rode along the seaside. It was amazing. And Patricia might have even had a little fun, too. That night was our last on Paros and we celebrated by going to a bar that we’d visited before and playing videogames with the 60something female bartender and her friend. It was the best day ever.

The next morning we took the ferry back to Athens and spent the afternoon wandering around the Syntagma area until Bri got back from a class trip. Then she, and some of her study-abroad friends, took us out to a fun dinner in Bri’s part of town. That night, Patricia and I slept on chair cushions on Bri’s floor. It was like a sleepover! Hanging out with Bri again was a lot of fun and makes me excited for CMC.

Another funny thing about Greece is that the sewage system is so old that you are not allowed to flush your toilet paper. You must throw it away instead. Which can be awkward if your hotel’s cleaning staff forget to empty your trash for several days. Not that I’m speaking from experience, mind you!

The following morning we awoke bright and early to catch our plane back to Milan. Bri saw us to the bus stop and we hugged goodbye. After taking public transportation to the airport – and not getting lost once, I might add – we were on our way back “home”. By this time we were excited to get back to Siena and our homes away from home. However, we had planned to spend a night in Milan and so we did. We spent the night in a hostel after seeing Milan’s fabulous duomo and slept, yet again, like the dead. Traveling takes it out of you!

The next day we looked around Milan some more before my camera finally died. Luckily, we got on the bus that would take us back to Siena shortly thereafter. However, during the trip the bus somehow became later and later, causing us to get in to Siena and hour and a half later than planned and me to be very grumpy. From the bus station in Siena it is necessary to take a bus to the town itself and then, for me, to walk about 20 minutes to my apartment. By the time I actually got back to my little abode, I was so happy to be home I forgot my grumpiness. And went to sleep.

This is long overdue…

Okay. I know I haven’t written in a while, but hopefully the length of this post will make up for it a bit.

So, due to that CMC financial aid questionnaire, I found myself thinking about how I ended up deciding to go to Siena to study:

When I was registering for classes in the fall of my freshman year, I decided that I wanted to get a start on my language requirement by taking Spanish. I had taken Latin in high school and figured that another romance language would be useful. However, all the introductory Spanish classes were full by the time I got to the Registrar. I then inquired about French classes and discovered that they, too, were all full. Knowing that I still wanted to take a language similar to Latin, I asked if there were ANY beginning romance language classes open at the point. I was told that there were spaces left in an introductory Italian class at Scripps I could get into and jumped at the opening. At that time, I knew little of Italy and much less of the Italian language, but, during that semester, I fell so in love with both the culture and the people that I knew before winter break of freshman year that I had to study abroad in Italy. During my second semester of freshman year, while continuing to study Italian, I went to an info session about studying abroad in a little Tuscan town called Siena and fell in love. It has been over a year since I made that decision; I’m actually studying in Siena right now and couldn’t be happier. I’m so glad I wasn’t able to get in to Spanish or French. It’s nice to know that sometimes things work out for the best.

Now, after being here for almost two months, I think I’ve finally acclimated. Sometimes, I even forget that I’m in another country! I love my apartment, my friends in the program, and my roommate. Ah yes, it has been a while! I got an Italian roommate in the first week of October. Her name is Serena Bettini (a very Italian last name) and she is from a city near Verona, the city where Romeo and Juliet is based. She speaks some English, so we try to teach each other: I speak Italian to her while she speaks English to me and we critique. She is a young thing – only 18 and at her first year of college. I feel as though I can pretend to be old, since I will be 21 in a few months. :D

The reason for my lack of e-mails for the past weeks has been my crazy schedule. The weekend of September 27/28, I went with some friends on a three-day trip to Le Cinque Terre, a collection of beach towns northeast of Siena. It was gorgeous and lots of fun. I ate the most delicious seafood – who would have thought that spaghetti with clams and mussels in it would be so good? We also swam in the Mediterranean, which is gorgeous. Had it been warmer, we might have even stayed in the water for more than twenty minutes! J The weekend after that, I studied for my first Italian exam in Italy and took a break on Saturday (the 4th) by going on a day trip to Pisa. While there is not much to do there but pose creatively for photos in front of the Tower, it was a fun time and something I figured I had to see since Siena is so close. I got an A- on my test, by the way, which is the highest I’ve EVER scored in an Italian class. Guess living here has been a good influence! The weekend after that (this would be October 9-11 – Thursday through Saturday, don’t ask me why we came back on a Saturday) IES sponsored and led a trip to the city of Bologna. There, we shopped, toured, and made pasta. Yes, we got to eat it when we were done. J Bologna actually has two leaning towers of its own, but I guess Pisa beat it to the punch. Last weekend, my boyfriend, Andrew, came to visit. I’m still amazed that it worked out; we had such a great time. He flew into Rome and we stayed there for a day and toured the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and more. It was a rush, especially since we did this in 4 hours right after his 13 hour flight! The next day, we went to Le Cinque Terre and spent several days there. (Can you tell that I love it?) Sunday, we came to Siena and I got to play tour-guide some more. He left Tuesday morning and I had to go back to the normal grind. His visit was, however brief it seemed, so much fun.

After dropping Andrew off in Rome on Tuesday, I was able to stop at a big grocery store that’s near the train station in Siena and usually a bit out of the way. While there, I bought some packaged soup mixes and other stuff. Tonight I ate one of my finds: chili con carne and rice! It was…weird, but kind of fun to have a new taste after all these Italian flavors. Good news, though - I can cook! Without burning things or spilling very much at all! I’m pretty stoked. I’m still learning, but, who knows how good I’ll be when I get back to the States? I have a three-day fall break coming up in the first part of the first week of November and my friend from IES and I are going to Greece for the break and then some. We plan to skip the last part of that week so as to have a 9-day break. We’ll be able to see Milan (that’s where we fly out of and into), Athens, and then our final destination of Paros Island. I’m VERY excited. :D Now we’ll just have to hope the weather cooperates and global warming works in my favor.

Hopefully, I will be able to get myself to blog more frequently and the next installment will arrive sooner than this one and, hopefully, be briefer.

Nella bocca al lupo…

Wow. So it’s been a few weeks since my last post. Much has changed. I now live in the city center in Siena, in the cutest little apartment the world has ever seen. There are pictures on facebook if you need proof. My Italian roommate hasn’t arrived yet and, as it is only a two-person apartment with one bedroom, I have the whole place to myself. It’s wonderful. This is a much better living situation than the homestay because I can now actually get to know my IES comrades and I can more often and more easily keep in touch with family and friends. AND I don’t have to experience the HELL that is the SIenese bus system anymore!!!

I moved from homestay to apartment last Wednesday and left for Napoli (Naples) early Thursday morning with the IES group. We were in Napoli for four days so I only yesterday unpacked and moved my stuff in. Luckily for me, my homestay mom was really understanding about how unhappy I was and said that, if living in the city would make me happy, I should. She also extended an invitation to come over for dinner anytime. Best possible reaction.

Napoli was very exciting. We went to Pompeii and Capri while there, and quite exhausted ourselves. I think I got my fill of pizza for the next month during that weekend due to pizza being the most popular dish for almost every meal…(Napoli invented pizza).

Now that I’m back at Siena, I’m appreciating it more, especially when comparing it to Napoli. Napoli was a little grungy and sketchy (it’s run by the mob) and Siena can’t help but be cute in comparison. Classes – REAL classes – started yesterday. I’m out of practice with this whole “homework” thing, so I’ll have to get back into the swing of things pretty darn quickly.

Turns out that I’m not really a cook. At all. I tried to make myself something like Fettuccine Alfredo (which, by the way, doesn’t exist in Italy – must have been invented by the Olive Garden) and ended up making a huge mess and taking an hour and a half to do something that should have taken 30 min. Ah well, I figure it’s a learning experience.

Now that I have internet that is easily accessible, I hope to be able to update this blog more frequently. Hope the stream-of-consciousness style I have going isn’t too confusing. Ciao ciao.

Part I

You know that chart they give you before going abroad that is supposed to show what you will feel at each point in time throughout your stay (e.g. excited, homesick…)? Yeah, I don’t follow it at all. It comes and goes, I guess. One minute I feel like I can handle anything that comes my way, the next I’m on the verge of a breakdown. More the second one than the first, truth be told.

It’s hard. Harder than I expected. I have gotten all kinds of lost, lost my favorite sweater, missed a ton of buses/boarded the wrong ones, been late for dinner by over an hour because of this several times, and made my host mom think I’m a complete idiot. But, hey, at least I haven’t tripped and fallen on the cobblestone streets AND I haven’t had anything stolen. Knock on wood. Even my communications with my host mom are improving. Now, if I can just figure out this bus thing then my life will improve dramatically.

Oh, you want details? Okay:

I live on the second story of an apartment-like building in an apartment-like dwelling with an elderly couple. I rarely see my host dad because he is old and likes to be alone; however, I am almost constantly with my host mother when I am home. Her name is Marina. She is over sixty, wears lots of make-up, dyes her hair multiple colors, and doesn’t speak a word of English. However, we do alright.

I live slightly outside Siena proper, and thus have to take a bus every day to get to and from school…

…to be continued (out of time).

This was written yesterday on the bus from Rome to Siena

Sono qui. We just left Roma and are on the bus to Siena. The last two days have been a whirlwind and it’s nice to finally have a moment to collect my thoughts and reflect.

I flew from Boise (home) to Denver, Colorado to Frankfurt, Germany to Rome, Italy. Each leg of the flight was more or less uneventful in itself. Getting to and from my flights (after Boise to Denver), on the other hand, was not.

It seemed that some trick of fate placed my arriving gates as far away from my departing gates as possible. Coupled with this, my plane was about an hour late arriving in Frankfurt; I had to run across the HUGE airport to the exact other side, go through customs, and not get lost in…15 minutes! Or so I would have had to if my departing flight to Rome hadn’t been 45 minutes late also. Luckily for me, I was able to make it to the gate with 5 minutes to spare. The Frankfurt airport was humid and hot (no air conditioning) and my hands and feet were blistered (from carrying heavy luggage/wearing newish shoes). Upon boarding the plane, I was a sweaty, panting mess. I swear, I have never felt so uncomfortable in my life. And then I crashed. I slept through the entire flight to Rome, sticky and all.

Upon arrival to the aeroporto in Rome, I was told to board the easily accessible train there. It took me about 30 minutes and several broken Italian questions to find it. I got in line for the correct train and had about ten minutes or forty minutes to catch it, depending on how fast the line moved. I was able to buy my ticket one minute before the first departure and had to run with about 100 pounds of luggage to try and catch the train. I barely made it – I kept dropping my luggage as I ran from door to door trying to find some room. Thanks to two French guys, I was able to get my stuff and myself in just before the doors closed. I rode the train for 30 minutes, trying to relax and enjoy the “scenery”. As in America, there is nothing picturesque located next to train tracks…so I saw the backwater of Rome. Upon arrival to the appropriate station, I had been instructed to take a taxi to the hotel that all the IES Siena people would stay at overnight. After the French guys helped get my luggage off the train, I bumped and struggled my way to the taxi stand. After I had been chosen by a driver (they decide if they want you after learning of your ending location) I thought I’d try and speak to him solo in italiano. Non un buon idea. He then started rattling off something in Italian that mentioned “2” and “over there” among other things. As I started walking in the direction he’d been pointing, thinking I had to get a ticket or something odd, an English-speaking Italian man nicely informed me that the driver was simply telling me that there was a 2 Euro surcharge for leaving the station. Then he turned me back toward the taxi and, in a fatherly way, told me to ‘Go, go! Get in the taxi!’. I thanked him and did so.

For the entirety of the ride, the taxi driver and I spoke maybe 5 words in Italian – he realized that his English was much better than my Italian. He helped me to the hotel in which I met my IES representative and was finally able to rest. I am so glad I don’t have to do that again for 3.5 months.

I slept more or less the rest of the evening, excluding a delightful group dinner – I hadn’t had real food in 20 hours… As I write this, it is Tuesday morning and we are on a chartered bus to Siena. Most of us are sleeping.

Italy is full of sunflower fields.

I had a dream…

…in which I spoke Italian.  Not much Italian, but a little.  Un po’.  Got to be a good sign, right?  I sure hope so.  I need a good sign to counteract these nerves - THREE days!  (tre giorni)  Eep.  Wish I felt more ready, but perhaps that’s how it goes.

I’m practicing Italian furiously (although to little avail), watching movies in Italian (this one takes place in a concentration camp in Nazi Germany - uplifting, right?), and researching the country (ah, the wonders of the internet).  Which is crazy, by the way.  (The country, I mean.)  The have a President, who appoints a Prime Minister, who appoints his Council of Ministers.  Somewhere in there is the bicameral legislative branch.  The President is basically just a figurehead, as far as I can tell.  The Premier (Prime Minister) wears the pants.

Maybe it’s like a chain of representation: you elect a representative who elects the Presidente who appoints the Premier who appoints the Council of Ministers.  Guess I’m being ethnocentric, but it’s a bit strange and convoluted to me…

Guess I’ll just have to see how it works - or doesn’t - when I get there.  In three days.  AHHHH!